Troubling trousers: A study of socio-cultural perceptions surrounding women's trousers and bodily agency

Abstract

Tanzanians, like other East African people, have long-standing gendered dress traditions where attempts at cross-dressing have historically been met with disdain and resistance, reflecting deeply ingrained gender norms. However, the increasing influence of Western values and practices, combined with local agency and diverse cultural interactions, is shifting boundaries around gendered dress codes. As people navigate these global and local dynamics, traditional norms are being reevaluated and redefined, leading to a more complex and evolving cultural landscape. This ethnographic inquiry explores how women's trousers are perceived by both genders, particularly among youth, incorporating life stories and examining how spatial constraints influence trouser fashion. Surveys among University of Dar es Salaam students reveal challenges to sartorial changes in everyday life. Through a feminist lens, the analysis highlights how individuals express perceptions of women's trousers. Critics argue trouser design alters how women's bodies are shaped and perceived, helping us understand how clothing defines a woman in moral terms. The argument is that despite a seemingly higher number of female trouser critics, women wearing trousers are gradually gaining acceptance, largely driven by normalization through habituation—the process of repeated exposure making the unconventional feel ordinary.