Physicochemical and rheological characterizations of <i>Cocos nucifera</i> L. and <i>Elaeis guineensis</i> Jacq. (Arecaceae) oils for black hair shampoo formulation

Abstract

Black hair suffers from a lipid deficiency, either on the surface with a decrease in sebaceous secretion or in depth with a lack of covalent bonds between the lipids and the cuticular cells. The result is a porous cuticle, a dull, rough hair that is difficult to untangle and breaks easily. The aim of this study was to evaluate properties of oils extracted from Cocos nucifera and Elaeis guineensis intended for the formulation of shampoos for black hair. Physicochemical and rheological analyses were carried out. Both oils showed a refractive index of 1.45 and melting points of 28 °C and 30 °C for coconut oil and palm kernel oil, respectively. The relative densities, moisture contents, saponification indexes, peroxide values, unsaponifiable matter contents, para-anisidine values were relatively similar while iodine and acid values were different. Both oils are rich in lauric, oleic and linoleic acids. These oils exhibited a Newtonian behavior and a dominant elastic nature after their melting temperature in the study conditions. They could constitute active ingredients for the formulation of shampoo for black hair in view of their different characteristics.

Keywords: Physico-chemical analyses, rheological parameters, Cocos nucifera oil, Elaeis guineensis oil.